How to Install Traditional (Unpasted) Wallpaper

Installing traditional wallpaper gives you more control over adhesion and alignment. Follow these steps carefully for a smooth, durable finish.

A lot of installation problems come from poor wall prep. Spend time here and it pays off later.

Ensure walls are clean, dry, smooth, and free from dust, grease, flaking paint, or loose plaster.
Remove any existing wallpaper, nails, screws, or residue.
Fill holes or cracks with spackle or joint compound; sand down bumps.
If your walls are textured or uneven, consider applying a wallpaper liner (lining paper) for a uniform surface.
Apply a wallcovering primer or sizing (when recommended) to seal the wall and improve paste adhesion.
Do not wallpaper over freshly painted walls — allow new paint at least 4 weeks to cure fully.
Use a roller or brush to coat walls with the primer/sizing (if used); allow it to dry completely before wallpapering.

Make sure you have everything ready before you begin. Typical tools and materials include:

Tool / Material	Purpose / Notes
Wallpaper rolls	Confirm pattern repeat and roll numbers.
Wallpaper paste / adhesive	Use a quality, appropriate paste (e.g. heavy duty, clear paste).
Paste tray and roller or brush	For applying the paste evenly.
Measuring tape & ruler	For strip length and alignment.
Pencil	For marking guidelines.
Plumb line or level	To ensure the first strip is perfectly vertical.
Straightedge or metal ruler	Helps with cutting straight lines.
Craft knife / utility blade (with extra blades)	Sharp blades are crucial for clean cuts.
Smoothing tool / wallpaper brush / plastic roller	To smooth air bubbles and press edges.
Sponge, bucket, clean water	For wiping off excess paste and cleaning.
Drop cloths / plastic sheeting	To protect floors and surrounding areas.
Ladder / step stool	For reaching high walls or ceilings.
Apron or clothes with pockets	Useful to keep tools handy.

Preparing proper strips ahead of time helps maintain consistency.

Measure the height of the wall (from ceiling to baseboard or floor) at several points.
Add extra length (usually 2–3 cm / about 1 in) for trimming at top and bottom.
Determine how many strips you'll need based on wall width and wallpaper roll width.
Consider the pattern repeat — align the design so adjoining strips match seamlessly.
It's wise to label your strips (e.g. “Strip A, B, C”) to keep them in order.

The first strip sets the alignment for the rest — accuracy matters.

Measure the width of the wallpaper roll and estimate where your first strip should go.
From a corner, use a plumb line or spirit level to draw a perfectly vertical guideline (leave a 1 cm or so margin from the corner for trimming).
This vertical line is your reference for placing the first strip squarely.

Different wallpapers and surfaces may require different types of adhesive; follow the manufacturer’s instructions. But here is a general approach:

Mix the wallpaper paste or adhesive per instructions—correct consistency (not too thin, not too thick).
Use a tray, roller, or brush to apply the paste evenly to the back of each wallpaper strip, covering up to the edges.
Ensure full coverage without dry spots or excessively heavy lumps.
If the paste soaks or activates over time, let it sit (or “rest”) for a few minutes (sometimes called “book paste” time).

“Booking” helps the adhesive distribute and the paper relax:

Fold the pasted strip paste to paste, bringing top and bottom edges together without creasing.
Leave it folded for 5 to 7 minutes (or as per the paste instructions).
This allows the paste to absorb and the paper fibers to expand slightly, which can reduce bubbling and shrinkage.

This is critical — the rest depend on this alignment.

Unfold the top section of the paper, exposing the pasted surface.
Align the top of the strip with the ceiling or molding (leaving the extra trimming allowance).
Align vertically against your plumb line or guideline.
Gently press the strip onto the wall, starting at the top and letting it hang downward.

Once the strip is in position:

Use your smoothing tool (brush, roller, or plastic smoother) to press the paper to the wall. Work from the center outward to push out air bubbles.
Move slowly and deliberately — small bubbles may vanish as the paste sets, but significant ones should be smoothed immediately.
Dampen a sponge lightly (not soaking) and wipe off excess paste from the surface and edges as you go.

After the strip is applied and smoothed:

Use your straightedge / metal ruler and a fresh, sharp craft knife to trim excess material at the top, bottom, and sides (around corners, switches, and baseboards).
Always cut with steady pressure and a clean blade; replace the blade frequently to avoid ragged edges.
Be careful around molding or trim — sometimes you’ll cut into the molding or leave a hairline gap depending on your preference and design.

Continue strip by strip, matching the pattern and aligning each new piece properly:

For each subsequent strip, match the pattern from the prior panel before pasting.
Butt edges tightly (unless the product requires overlap). Avoid overlaps unless explicitly instructed.
Smooth out any air pockets, pressing edges firmly.
Clean seams immediately (wipe excess paste) to prevent visible adhesive when dry.
After two strips are up, step back and inspect alignment and pattern match. Adjust early if needed — it’s harder once many strips are up.

Once all strips are hung:

Let the wallpaper dry naturally in a well-ventilated room (usually 24 to 48 hours).
Use a damp sponge or soft cloth to wipe the surface clean of any paste residue. Avoid scrubbing.
For washable wallpapers, mild detergent (non-abrasive) can be used gently.
Avoid soaking or saturating seams.
If a seam lifts later, sometimes a light mist of water plus gentle pressure can help re-adhere it before the adhesive fully cures.
Be gentle around the walls until fully dried and set.